Before we’re caught in the rip current of Fashion Week, a few words of appreciation for Txell Miras’ Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection. Miras’ stubborn achromatism highlights her talent for layering fabrics and textures. Most of the looks are modern (”modern” here being interchangeable with “post-apocalyptic”) and, as always, her patterns keep the eye busy.

Fortunately for the models, they were all supplied with miners’ lamps to puncture the gloom. Some favorite looks and pieces:

Detail shot of above.

Great jacket patterns:

Love the exaggerated cowl hoods:

While not all are entirely wearable, the following coats and jackets stand out for structure, innovation or just because I would love to wear them.

Kenzo a/w 2007-8

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I hesitate to put forth opinions on a collection emphasizing deconstruction. Txell Miras’ s/s 2007 collection entitled, “Desencorsetant” (Uncorseting) goes down that path, and since I am anything but an expert tailor I’ll steer clear from judgment in that regard. Like fellow conceptualists Rei Kawakubo and Viktor & Rolf, Miras’ ability to stir up thought is part of her signature style. In Desencorsetant I first see hatching corsets and think of matryoshka dolls, nested garments being something Viktor & Rolf have done in the past. Then I digress further into the chicken and the egg problem, which of course leads to an even thornier philosophical issue: Which came first, the woman or the corset?

Txell Miras s/s 2007, detail www.elcorreodigital.com

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