You cannot deconstruct unless you know how to construct. - Alexander McQueen

Aitor Throup - Part II: Branding Through Construction permalink

All good comic book artists have a signature style when drawing the characters’ anatomy and postures. Aitor Throup has taken his characters to the next level, sculpting them and then making a garment pattern based on the pose of the character’s form in motion. He calls this process, “branding through construction”. “As a child I was constantly (and still am) drawing the body in motion. I spent my time attempting to give each of my drawings an anatomy of their own. And then one day, something amazing happened: Tim Burton made BATMAN. And in his interpretation of Batman’s mask, he succeeded in giving anatomy to an inanimate object.

I honoured this pivotal design classic by creating a wool jacket with a built-in three-dimensional Batman hood/mask. The cut of the jacket was based on a sculpture of the body in a particular ‘superhero pose’, so it hung in a slightly distorted way. Therefore the whole piece (not just the hood), had its own anatomy. The accompanying trousers were also based on the idea of ‘every-day superheroes’. They were two pairs of trousers interacting with each other: the cut of the internal pair was based on the human muscular system of the legs, creating a sort of fabric version of an anatomical ecorché. The external trousers consisted of exaggerated volume and multiple pleats and darts, concealing the internal structure. Should the wearer ever be called to Superhero duty, he could find the nearest phonebox, turn the trousers inside-out and put his hood up.”

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Aitor Throup’s “stickemup”

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The Anatomy of Grey permalink

The color grey refers to any shade along an achromatic continuum between black and white. It takes on a host of various expressions with fabrics usage, appearing raw or refined. It also acts as a metaphor, relating to a subjective matter or difference of opinion - “a grey area”. The relative nature of grey extends from a person’s mood to perceptions of the natural world: add luminescence or reflected light and a gloomy grey cloud has a silver lining.

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Menichetti a/w 2006-7

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