You cannot deconstruct unless you know how to construct. - Alexander McQueen

archive for the 'Fashion' department

More from Big Thaw

Thursday, December 20th, 2007

Here are some songs I’ve been putting together. Hope you enjoy them.

The Back of Beyond

Amateur Seaman

Ghettotecture

Blue-Devil Factory

Sandra Backlund’s Ink Blot Test

Friday, June 15th, 2007

The newest collection from Sandra Backlund, “Ink Blot Test”:

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photo by Peter Farago

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Distinctive Coats from the a/w 2007-8 Collections

Friday, June 1st, 2007

While not all are entirely wearable, the following coats and jackets stand out for structure, innovation or just because I would love to wear them.

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Kenzo a/w 2007-8

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Everlasting Sprout’s Charm Collection

Friday, May 25th, 2007

The attraction to Everlasting Sprout’s a/w 2007-8 “Charm” collection is due as much to the idea behind the looks as to the skillfully worked knitwear itself. Keiichi Muramatsu and Noriko Seki explain that what inspired them for this collection, “…was a series of pictures taken by Eugène Atget. The pictures capture the old streets of Paris, but more importantly the light that has been enclosed in the pictures gave us a lot of inspiration. The main idea is the scene in which one man falls in love with one girl. The girl is so beautiful that she is shining, even in a black and white picture.”

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Everlasting Sprout, a/w 2007-8 “Charm” collection

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Koji Arai Last Supper Exhibition

Sunday, April 15th, 2007

If you’re in Japan between now and June 3rd Koji Arai’s “Last Supper” exhibit is on at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa:

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Paradise Kiss

Monday, January 22nd, 2007

Living in Atlanta for three years helped to dispel many myths (no, the Tara Plantation has never been real and no, there aren’t any peach trees to be found in Atlanta) and reinforce a few stereotypes (yes, southern folk are hospitable and yes, it’s called the Dirty South for a reason). I miss the humid summer nights, live oaks, the curious ability of kudzu to engulf anything within a couple of weeks if not tamed and the steady stream of pleasant surprises. Coming across Oxford Comics was one of those pleasant surprises, and it still has my vote for best comic book shop. Through the owner’s well-organized, comprehensive inventory I stumbled onto many wonderful finds, like the fashion manga, Paradise Kiss.

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Ai Yazawa’s Paradise Kiss Volume 4, Los Angeles, Tokyo: Tokyopop, 2003. The cast of characters from left: Arashi, George, Isabella and Miwako - caged is “the heroine”, Yukari

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The Shanghai Gesture

Tuesday, January 9th, 2007

As I’ve mentioned in the past, I’m a big fan of designs coming out of Australia and the surrounding area because of their wearability. The s/s 2006/7 collection from New Zealand designer Kate Sylvester is a good example of this fine-tuned practicality. Inspired by the fusion of East meets West in Shanghai and Hong Kong, Sylvester’s “Young Ideas Go West” collection draws in part from the Shanghai Moderne culture of the 20s and 30s, complete with variations on the cheongsam.

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Kate Sylvester’s “Jade Dress”, s/s 2006/7 www.vogue.com.au

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Rita Saardi: Touches of Richness

Tuesday, December 19th, 2006

In conversations with Rita Saardi I was struck by her uninhibited, stream of consciousness response to my questions. Her free spirit reflects a rich background: Lebanese by birth, she grew up in Sweden and moved to Paris to learn French, remaining there to study fashion design. Her discipline, persistence and refusal to be reigned in by trends are successful qualities that propel her forward. She feels that, “Fashion is about l’air du temps, as Coco Chanel once said. It’s true, but today it’s more about you’re own world, your own air du temps. If everyone else is using color and you want grey, well then it should be grey. It’s your mood, your air du temps.”

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Rita Saardi s/s 2006, “white bird top”, detail

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Minä Perhonen – Like a Pleasant Breeze

Monday, December 11th, 2006

Collections created with a thoughtful foundation give me a keener sense of interaction with the designer through their work. Such is the case with the Japanese brand, minä perhonen. For their a/w 2006-7 collection, “White Swan in Black Dress”, the theme is the relationship between outward appearance of a person and the “existence of hidden internal essence”. Clothes can either communicate or cover up personality and emotion. The idea is directly expressed in the fabrics of the collection as well. The “sunny spots” fabric has irregularly shaped holes with embroidered edges, inspired by the play of sunlight through trees. I had the privilege of corresponding with Akira Minagawa, the garment and textile designer for his brand, who explained the concept further: “There are always gaps between visible facts and essential truth. I sometimes realize that invisible things are the essential beauty, or beauty within.”*

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minä perhonen a/w 2006-7, cascade dress
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

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Don’t Walk: Sandra Backlund’s Latest

Monday, November 27th, 2006

Sandra Backlund’s brilliant new collection, “Don’t Walk”:

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