You cannot deconstruct unless you know how to construct. - Alexander McQueen

Visions in Nude and Corsages Close to the Heart permalink

Last week during São Paulo Fashion Week, “something magical happened” in designer Paula Raia’s new house. Paola de Orleans e Bragança of style.com says that Raia’s S/S 2015 collection

nailed something that Brazil, and anyone interested in Brazil, has been craving for years: a precise, elegant, non-clichéd representation of the Brazilian essence translated into fashion. Using sisal, string, traditional embroideries, and tones that evoke wood, dirt, and the origin of Brazil’s name: the red tones of the earth that led to the association with embers (“brass” in Portuguese).

In his summing up of SPFW, Jorge Grimberg, also of style.com, similarly praises Raia’s presentation as, “…unquestionably one of the strongest of the season, with a vision on nude and natural hues mixed in different textures. The show provided a new, authentic, long-awaited Brazilian aesthetic, a mix of nature, architecture, and culture that just felt right.”

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Paula Raia S/S 2015

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Paula Raia S/S 2015

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Paula Raia S/S 2015

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Paula Raia S/S 2015

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Paula Raia S/S 2015, detail

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Paula Raia S/S 2015, detail

Again, I generally don’t give menswear collections a second glance, but then there’s Mai-Gidah by Alec Ali Abdulrahim. The creative and emotional stamp on his latest collection, “In loving memories”, refuses to be ignored. According to his conversation with Branko Popović, the collection was, ‘…a means of processing the past’.

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Mai-Gidah A/W 14/15

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Mai-Gidah A/W 14/15

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Mai-Gidah A/W 14/15

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Mai-Gidah A/W 14/15

What a talented fellow.

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