Collections created with a thoughtful foundation give me a keener sense of interaction with the designer through their work. Such is the case with the Japanese brand, minä perhonen. For their a/w 2006-7 collection, “White Swan in Black Dress”, the theme is the relationship between outward appearance of a person and the “existence of hidden internal essence”. Clothes can either communicate or cover up personality and emotion. The idea is directly expressed in the fabrics of the collection as well. The “sunny spots” fabric has irregularly shaped holes with embroidered edges, inspired by the play of sunlight through trees. I had the privilege of corresponding with Akira Minagawa, the garment and textile designer for his brand, who explained the concept further: “There are always gaps between visible facts and essential truth. I sometimes realize that invisible things are the essential beauty, or beauty within.”*

minä perhonen a/w 2006-7, cascade dress
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

Minagawa’s inspiration comes from the time he spends with his family and sceneries observed while traveling. His style shares similarities with Scandinavian design, and the words in his brand name are Finnish for “I” (minä) and “butterfly” (perhonen – symbolizing the wish to create as many beautiful designs as there are fluttering butterfly wings in the sky). “There are commonalities with the designs of Japan and Scandinavian countries, especially with pottery. Exchanges between artists have been active for a long time.”

a/w 2006-7, foot path dress
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

a/w 2006-7, ring jacket and camellia skirt
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

Though minä perhonen is well-known for its prints, close inspection of the a/w 2006-7 collection reveals fabric textures that lend equally to the overall charm of the brand. For example, minä perhonen’s cotton and Tibetan yak’s wool “foot path” fabric has been “sheep processed” to create the wooly texture. Minagawa’s expertise and insight into fabric design literally adds an extra dimension to his garments: “The texture of fabrics is an essential element to make the shape of a product. I make poetry with characteristics of fabric such as weight, tension and density of weave.”

a/w 2006-7; ripples coat, cascade dress and shinoyama hat
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

a/w 2006-7, swan lake top and skirt
photographed by Norio Kidera
hair & make-up by Hiromi Chinone (cirque)

Minagawa works closely with textile manufacturers in Japan, creating fabrics for garments and interiors that are recognized for their quality of craftsmanship. He believes that, “The most important thing for industries is to have two pillars: tradition and innovation. If tradition is lost and only innovation becomes worthwhile, the industry would have very limited vision. The Japanese textile industry has just realized the importance of the balance of the two pillars.”

minä perhonen, s/s 2007 www.aufeminin.com

s/s 2007, www.mainichi-msn.co.jp

s/s 2007, detail www.aufeminin.com

Currently minä perhonen can be found at Mameg in LA and Barneys in New York. Minagawa says he hopes to, “…present our brand to [the U.S.] and many other areas like a pleasant breeze. We believe that having our own shop outside Japan in the near future is a good way to communicate the world of minä perhonen with many people.”

*Many thanks to Kayo Nigo and Naoko Fujikawa, who translated my correspondence with Mr. Minagawa.