I hesitate to put forth opinions on a collection emphasizing deconstruction. Txell Miras’ s/s 2007 collection entitled, “Desencorsetant” (Uncorseting) goes down that path, and since I am anything but an expert tailor I’ll steer clear from judgment in that regard. Like fellow conceptualists Rei Kawakubo and Viktor & Rolf, Miras’ ability to stir up thought is part of her signature style. In Desencorsetant I first see hatching corsets and think of matryoshka dolls, nested garments being something Viktor & Rolf have done in the past. Then I digress further into the chicken and the egg problem, which of course leads to an even thornier philosophical issue: Which came first, the woman or the corset?

Txell Miras s/s 2007, detail www.elcorreodigital.com

Miras’ basis for her exaggerated, deconstructed corsetry is the idea of the corset as barrier. She took this further with other elements of classic construction as well, moving the shoulder pads back in order to, “liberate the shoulder” (I have never personally experienced a supressed shoulder, but I don’t doubt their existence somewhere in Spain). Her skirts are referred to as, “retro-futurist”, which apparently is a term more often used referring to literature or architecture. (This being the first time I’ve heard garments being referred to as retro-futurist, I can think of an even better example: Romain Kremer’s s/s 2007 collection.)

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007, detail www.elcorreodigital.com

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007, detail www.elcorreodigital.com

Interspersed within Desencorsetant Miras has many modern, wearable looks. This side of the designer is also evident in her work for Neil Barrett, for whom she designs women’s wear in Milan.

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Txell Miras s/s 2007 www.vogue.es

Miras’ measure of success in her effort to deconstruct is up to the experts. For me she has achieved something far more significant with her hatching corsets, closing in on the age-old chicken and the egg problem: the answer is nested in a matryoshka doll.