The Autumn/Winter 2010/11 shows at Paris Fashion Week come - for better or worse - leather bound. Also, “tribe” and “tribal” are words that often get tossed about in reference to this season’s collections. Sarah Mower of Style.com quoted Rick Owens as saying that his women are, ‘a sect of nuns with inner discipline’. Well, naturally I think Dune:
Punk Bene Gesserits at the Rick Owens A/W 2010/11 show
All photos from Style.com
“I want to make a dress which can be exhibited in her living-room rather than kept in her closet.” This is the solitary statement on Bonkuk Koo’s blog. His beautiful dresses are staggeringly complex works that should not be shut away in a closet, out of sight and out of mind. “It is not just clothes for wearing, it’s art that people can get a lot of emotion and energy from.” Whether they are displayed in a gallery or on the body, Koo’s dresses cannot fail to be regarded as outstanding artistic achievements.
a dress by Bonkuk Koo
I love crime jazz, and there’s a wonderful crime jazz special on the Retro Cocktail Hour radio show, hosted by Darrell Brogdon. It includes the “Checkmate” theme by John Williams, a selection from “Twin Peaks” composed by Angelo Badalamenti and “Marlowe’s Theme” from Farewell, My Lovely by the incredible David Shire. Don’t miss the cover gallery.
Album cover for Private Hell 36 (1954)
Milan has produced some stellar output this season. Favorites for Fall/Winter 2010/11 are Gabriele Colangelo, Albino, Gaetano Navarra, Francesco Scognamiglio, Marco de Vincenzo, Prada and Marni. All photos from Style.it.
A look from Gabriele Colangelo’s geologically inspired Fall/Winter 2010/11 collection
Alexander McQueen was a visionary and losing him extends beyond the realm of fashion.
I meant to write about Lois Nesbitt’s Brodsky & Utkin: The Complete Works sooner, but until recently it was buried in one of my “to be processed” stacks of reading material (easily confused with my “to sit and collect dust” stacks, but I know the difference). Russian paper architects Alexander Brodsky and Ilya Utkin formed a partnership in the late Seventies that lasted roughly a decade. Their fantastic work, according to Nesbitt, “constitutes a graphic form of architectural criticism” of the dehumanizing effects of Soviet utilitarian architecture.
Doll’s House 1982
from Nesbitt’s Brodsky & Utkin: The Complete Works (New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 2003)
Constantly chasing whoever or whatever is next in fashion can often leave me jaded, but then along comes Lamija Suljević. Based in Sweden, Suljević is one of the most gifted young designers I’ve seen in some time. The materials and handcrafted details in her Fall/Winter 2010 collection are infused with childhood memories of her native Bosnia. “When I think of my hometown, I think of old techniques and handmade garments. Having that with me during my design process has become one of my strengths. If I’m working on my collections, I work wholeheartedly. Nothing else is good enough. If my grandmother were alive she would be proud, and things like that are very important to me.”
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